Route Photo


Route Map 1:250,000 Scale

Our Route: Muldrow Glacier
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Our choice of the Muldrow Glacier route does not come without additional challenges. Park regulations does not permit the use of air support anywhere within the National Park boundary. This makes for a long and strenuous approach and adds several days to the travel itinerary. The route is 56 kilometers (35 miles) from Wonder Lake to the summit compared to 26 kilometers (16 miles) over the West Buttress Route. The extra approach distance will add about 6 to 7 days to our itinerary and a lot of gear packing. There are several ways to haul the gear to the lower part of Muldrow Glacier. The most common is to Start early while the snow cover is still good and fly climbers and supplies to Kantishna as the park road does not open until earliest June 6th. Later starters must  plan on lugging all their gear 30 kilometers (19 miles) to McConagall Pass before allowing to sled the supplies the remaining distance. An option to this is to have the supplies brought by dogsled and cashed at the base of Muldrow Glacier in March. In this case the supplies have to be flown to Kantishna before the dogsled team can bring them up. We have decided to try another approach to the problem and are designing a wagon arrangement which we can strap the sled to and should make it far easier to haul the gear to the Muldrow Glacier. As the West Buttress route see the vast majority of climbers every season there are only a handful of teams that chose to Climb via The Muldrow Glacier. We hope the lesser "traffic" will improve our experience and feeling  of  accomplishment in the end. It is also a stunningly beautiful route to climb according to everyone we have been in touch with about this expedition.

Technical Data
Point of departure:
Summit elevation:
Altitude gain:
Distance:
Difficulty Rating:
Time to accomplish:
Crux:
 		Wonder Lake (640 meter,2100 feet ASL)
 6194 meters or 20,320 feet ASL
5554 meters or 18220 feet
56 kilometers or 35 Miles (one way)
Alaska Grade II
22 to 35 days
The knife-edge Karstens Ridge and possibly the ice falls depending on current conditions.

Route Description
Our Expedition starts at the Wonder Lake trailhead (640m/2,100 feet). Hopefully snow and road conditions will allow access to the trailhead. From Wonder Lake we will hike 3,5km (2.2 miles) to McKinley River (610m/2,000 feet). Forging the McKinley river can sometimes be a difficult task. During the runoff the rivers swift cold water can become a significant obstacle. Further the trail leads us across East Clearwater creek (9km) and along Cache Creek to McConagall Pass (1,744m/5,720feet) some 30.5km or 19 miles from the trailhead. From the pass we will descend to The Muldrow Glacier. The first 1.5 km (1 mile) of the Muldrow is normally ascended on the right (west) flank. From there along the center to the lower Icefall at about 2,027m (6,650 feet). Past the icefall the route bears west skirting the lower icefall on avalanche cones. Passing directly under the hanging glacier between 2,073m - 2,103m (6,800 - 6,900 feet) should be avoided. Around 2,255m (7,400 feet) we will again move to the center of the glacier until we reach "The Hill of Cracks". It can easily be passed on the left but it is very exposed to ice avalanches from Mount Carpe and it is recommended to find a way through the crevasses in the glaciers center. Next is the Great Icefall from 2,652m to 2,965m (8,700 to 9,600 feet). We will initially ascend through the center followed by working around to the west side. Next is the ascent to the notch of Karstens Ridge at 3,331m (10,900 feet). Karstens Ridge with it's 30 to 40 degree slopes covered with ice and snow is the only significant crux along the route. It's steep and narrow crestline divide the Muldrow from The Traleika Glaciers west fork. The route follow Karstens Ridge to The Browne Tower at 4,451 meters (14,600 feet) where it bears right gradually onto Harper Glacier. Parker Pass at this area is called will need careful avalanche condition evaluation. The Harper Glacier's 2 icefalls at 4,900 meters (16,000 feet) and at 5,200 meters (17,000 feet) can both be turned on the right (north side). Be cautious of falling ice down the slopes from the North Peak. From the upper glacier basin at 5,490 meters(18,000 feet) head south and ascend the south flank of Denali Pass. The last 3.3 kilometers (2 miles) follow a steeper slope to a 5790 meter (19,000 feet) plateau and further across nearly 1 kilometer of lever windblown snow to the final summit ridge. If we get this far it is time to enjoy the view from 6194 meters or 20,320 feet. The top of North America.

Camps


Camp 1
Camp 2
Camp 3
Camp 4
Camp 5
Camp 6
Camp 7
Camp 8*		 The first 3-4 nights will be spent at suitable locations along the trail to McConagall Pass. Location and time will depend on conditions and progress.
Base of the Lower Icefall (6,500 feet)
One mile above the Lower Icefall (7,500 feet)
Opposite Pioneer Ridge (9,700 feet)
Base of Karstens Notch (10,800 feet)
Karstens Ridge (12,100 feet)
Just past Browne Towers (15,000 feet)
On Harper Glacier (16,000 to 17,000 feet)
Below/near Denali Pass (17,700 feet) optional